KOREA PART 1

Here we are! Part one of an amazing adventure of a weekend!

Friday was my first time skipping class for something other than an illness or health-related appointment (thankfully I was able to talk with my teacher). Then, my travel buddy and I started heading towards the bus at the nearby train station. On the way, we stopped at my house for me to switch bags and my host family were so kind and had cold tea prepared for both of us. My travel buddy (V) lives in the dormitories rather than with a host family so truly enjoyed the experience. My host family also lent us an adapter! I was shocked and my host dad said this house is truly international. We then took the hour and twenty minute bus to the airport, sped through customs and security quite smoothly, and had some matcha drinks before boarding the plane. Once again, we went through the system quite quickly (though the person working the counter was not enthusiastic, kept silent, and tossed us our passports). We bought our T-money cards for the subway system, got some won, and headed to our hostel. It was nice to note that the airport is connected to the city by the subway and there were signs with English everywhere. Also note that the subway system of Seoul has multiple lines that are all connected so you don't have to leave the station (though the stations are huge, with long walkways and tall stairs that are usually ignored for the escalators (for good reason)).





We slept in a bit, until around eight or so, and then headed off to start a day of palaces and sun! The temperature was not too bad, but the sun was so brutal that it felt hotter than it was and we sweat a
lot. I was grateful for my sunglasses because, when I peaked at the world without them, it was just ridiculous, bright, and white. The subway we got off at had an entrance that led directly to a palace so we ate at the palace cafe for brunch. We each had beef bulgogi with glass noodles. V had hot chrysanthemum tea while I had iced Chinese quince tea that was very sweet and delicious.

While waiting for the restaurant to open, we were able to witness the first performance of the day. Based off of historical records, we saw a reenactment of a guard procession and shift change. Bright reds, blues, and greens flowing in the wind: tinny sounds of bells, drums, and a trumpet on the main gate; tall flags bearing the four directional creatures of continental cosmology and mythology (black turtle, white tiger, red phoenix, blue dragon); long weapons. 

This first palace complex, North Palace, Gyeonbokgung, was just stunning. It was huge. We just kept entering new courtyards, passing new gates, seeing various buildings, and seeing a lot of Korean people dressed up in traditional dress (some couples, some family members, some friends). We later learned that if you come in traditional dress, you get free admission. However, we bought a $10 combination ticket for several palaces and a shrine, so we were satisfied.
I loved the bright green background with vibrant rainbow detail that adorned many of the structures. It was neat to see kanji labeling many of the architectural pieces as well.
Near the back of this huge complex, there was a library - it used to be a library and meeting place for foreign diplomats and has been converted into an actual library. We looked at the books, enjoyed the
circular windows, detailed ceiling, and refreshed ourselves with some water in the octagonal tower cafe section. We both just adored this building.

We walked through the Folk Museum, seeing a neat zodiac statue circle and inaccessible pagoda topping the building. The palace complex was also neat because of the informational panels, the usage of sundial bowls that also chart solstices and such, and the feeling of walking through a movie set or through time. Nearby the folk museum was a part of the palace where Empress Myeongseong was murdered by Japanese invaders. It was neat to learn about such a strong diplomat who was so unfortunately and brutally murdered - it was also interesting to note the language that was used and showing some hints of Japan-Korea issues.

Next, we started heading towards the next palace, stopping at a temple on the way. Jyogesa temple was very different from Japanese Buddhist temples I've experienced. For one, it had the white tree of Gondor...I apologize...a 500 year old National Treasure of Lace-bark Pine that just happens to be
large and white. Inside were little red lanterns completing covering the ceiling, fans, people praying on seated floor cushions, and three giant Buddha statues that were just stunning. On another tree beside the temple were multitudes of various colored lanterns. In the entrance gate were rainbow lanterns and Buddha wheels as well as four bodhisattvas. The temple building itself was quite colorful and vibrant, having detailed window screens (not just with motifs but with carvings of flowers and birds) and painted panels depicting Buddhist stories. It had an almost Indian feel to it, even having the occasional small elephant or leopard statue. 

Next, we walked around Changgyeonggung and Cheokgung palaces which were practically connected. Once again, bright colors and the feeling of walking through time. I loved the architecture in these palaces, but they were quite similar (probably because they were all built during the same era (Joseon)).

After relaxing in some of the buildings we were able to sit inside (after see concubine's courtyards and houses, and the asymmetrical layout of Changgyeonggung which was built along with the natural
landscape), we took the Secret Garden tour. That was the moment when we were surrounding by the most foreigners and English speakers the entire trip. Anyway, seeing the various gazebos, rivers, and smaller buildings among the trees was quite nice. I especially liked this old library by a lily-pad-containing pond.

Then, after getting our fill of palaces, we went to the historical Jongmyo Shrine that houses monarchs and imperial treasures. The size of it was immense - extremely long with tall pillars forming a beautiful corridor. Unfortunately, we could not walk through the pillars. Also, large, barren, stone courtyards were quite popular in the set up of these structures.

 

We also saw a creature that we still haven't identified. Possibly a tanuki? But we thought that was only Japan? Which brings me to a point: we saw a lot of birds species that we see in Japan and heard

talk of boar and foxes just like Japan.





Once we had used up all but one of the sections of our combination ticket, we headed to
Dongdaemun Design Plaza (DDP) - a bustling night-life shopping district with malls that open at 8 pm and close at 6 am, food trucks with strobe lights or Bob Marley, mini stages with k-pop performances, and more. As soon as we stepped out of the station, we saw a little stage set up and we might have been on Korean TV. A dance audition was finishing, people's names being called and excited, smiling young dancers hopping up onto stage (one with a broken arm, I might add). Then, the camera man turned around and got the audience in a 360. Anyway, the main draw of DDP besides shopping is the huge architectural masterpiece of DDP. The curves of this steely gray, gigantic building were mesmerizing.

We took a plunge and had grilled pork served at a table with a little stove built into it. We could not communicate with the employees other than hand gestures, but we were able to enjoy a delicious dinner (and somehow make it through eating some spicy kimchi). Then we cooled off with honey bread and

chocolate "snow" at a cafe called Wicked Snow. Apparently this thing called "snow" is more popular than ice cream in Seoul. It is a mixture of shaved ice and ice cream and feels like snow but softer and with flavor. It was quite delicious.

While enjoying the area, we also saw one of the two still standing important gates of the city.

Then, we headed back to our hostel for some rest before another full day. Before heading off to bed, here are a few more pictures from the first day (I will write more notes in the next part(s)). Good day and good night!