Fushimi Inari

Yes, yes, finally, I went to Fushimi Inari Shrine. The fox shrine of gates on gates on gates. It was amazing and, honestly, I had the experience of a spiritual journey through the mountain - but that will come as we go. Also, I will use the word "torii" a lot in this post - just a reminder that those are the red gates of Shinto shrines that separate the mundane world from the spiritual.

After traveling quite some time by train, my sister and I arrive at Fushimi Inari station, decorated with white fox and red gate motifs. Of course, we are quite hungry, so we search the area for ramen shops. After some fruitless searching and one of the only rude encounters I've had with Japanese people, we ran into a very nice shop worker who recommended a nearby ramen shop. The ramen was delicious! We both had tonkatsu ramen, which always has pork, and we saw someone cosplaying walk in. I am not sure who or what he was portraying, but I loved the dragon-decor on his belt. Anyway, we were so pleased with the ramen and with the shop worker's kindness that we returned to her shop for dessert. I had my first shaved ice dish, which is very popular in Japan - especially in the summer. It had sweet matcha sauce, little mochi balls, and some red beans.

Now fueled up, my sister and I headed to the shrine! It was gorgeous! The size! The symmetry! The
colors! While walking past the smooth and sophisticated green-gray fox statues and through the main gate, an older Japanese gentleman with a camera asked to take pictures of my sister's tattoo. Apparently, it is an old hobby of his. I believe he might have said he wishes to end the stigma in Japan against tattoos. Either way, we loved his interest. He told us to enjoy Japan and then we went our separate ways.

We explored the main shrine area, seeing shrine maidens and priests, observing a wall of torii-shaped wishes, and what looked to be a shrine priest but who had white pants rather than the traditional aqua. I wonder if he was an apprentice? We passed by smaller shrines with horse statues and people statues residing within them, souvenir stalls, and a few single torii before finally starting our hike through the tunnel of torii.

The first section had very large, tall torii. Since it was July and thus Gion, many sections of the shrine had electrical lights strung through them. It took a bit away from the ancient and mystical feel, however, it was neat to see. We were relieved though when we realized that the lights weren't strung throughout 100% of the torii. Anyway, this first section was enchanting for its newness and largeness. The second small section was made up of skinny, short gates positioned close together - and there were two tunnels. It was suggested that people stick to the right so those who are exiting the area are not blocked by those entering. That also felt like going through the rabbit hole.

Once we emerged, we saw more wishes (but in the shape of fox faces this time) and smaller shrine buildings. We also saw the tunnel of torii start up again to the left, guarded by another pair of foxes. By the way, these pairs of foxes were dispersed throughout the entire torii hike, each pair unique. It was really interesting. So we entered and continued upwards.



This area was extremely crowded and my sister and I were a bit agitated so we jumped on the opportunity to take a side trail for a few minutes and visited Okusha shrine. Though it was still part of the Fushimi Inari shrine and worships the same deity, it had a completely different atmosphere. We were practically the only people there, surrounded by green bamboo and trees, large clover-like plants with four leaves and purple tints, more diversity in the statues, and no red.




Feeling calmed and refreshed, we returned to the tunnel of gates. It was still crowded, but we felt more prepared for it. And so we continued up and up and up. Truthfully, the path occasionally took us down or side to side, but it was generally upwards. At one point, it began drizzling, cooling us down. And as we continued up the fewer people there were. As the steps became steeper, the gates thicker, and the rain harder, there were even fewer people until a majority of the hike became a journey for the two of us.

Every now and then, there would be a break in the tunnel with smaller side shrines adorned with their own tiny torii, fox statues, memorial stones, offerings, and in the case of one with a roof, two adorable kittens.We gazed at a lovely mountain lake with hydrangeas in the foreground, saw so much vivid moss, raindrops glistening off leaves, heard the rain and the wind and the storm, shops every now and then (usually nearby shrines), and interesting people. The farther up, the nicer they seemed. We did see a man running down the mountain with a snake in his hand...we were wondering if he was bit and had decided to carry it to help identify how he can be treated? Either way it was odd but we hope he turned out alright.

There were some times throughout the hike that I felt like it was the coolest place I've ever been and the best hike while others I was so overwhelmed, tired with the rain, worried about my camera battery, sick of the mosquitoes, or just negative. It was such an emotional roller-coaster, but we finally made it to the main mountain shrine at the top, surrounded by yet more mini shrines and stones. My sister and I each prayed at the top and, as we each clapped to signal the end, there was a clap of thunder. And then, on the way down, the rain lightened and disappeared. Our way back was a bit slippery, but technically 'dry.' There was one point where light was pouring through like gold, thick beams permeating the tunnel - breathtaking. And seeing the light sparkling in dewdrops in spider webs, frogs and snails and cats all coming out, birdsong, and more added to the beauty.

Exiting the forested tunnel was a sad moment, returning to the busy city. We had walked through literally thousands of gates, reassured by guardian foxes, immersing ourselves in the storm and trees and torii - to leave it was a bit sad.

All but one of the tourist shops were closed, so we went to the one open one and had soy ice cream and (regular) gelato.

Before heading home, we went to the area we'd be in the day after to get a sneak peak at the yamaboko (Gion floats - yama and hoko, collectively known as yamaboko). They were covered in lanterns, lit up in the night, and filled with drummers and flutists. Of course, it was incredibly crowded, not only in the streets and sidewalks but the subways too. It was like a river of people, flowing in the correct direction on each side with some going against the current to find a subway or food. It was shocking and interesting, but we were tired and hungry and knew we'd be seeing the floats again, so went home.

After the long, damp (not 100% from the hike yet) train ride home, we showered and had sushi that our host family got us. It was delicious and filling and perfect after the day.

Sorry to break the time bubble, but I am currently writing this in the US in my family home and find that it takes much longer for the pictures to load here. But I will still throw some in here because the hike was just stunning!